The Great Indian Voyage Contd. (2)
New Delhi….. I prefer just “Delhi” though… I’ve yet to see a city older than Delhi
This particular leg of my journey was a very impromptu decision. My good friend Sumit was going to get engaged, and I said to him “Hey, it’ll be so cool if I can be there in Hisar, I’ve never seen the North of India!” And from that point on, he insisted that I must make it. So, Hisar, here I come!
In a journey, yes, yes, the destination is important, the travel mates are important even the food may be important!... but folks, the medium of travel is THE most important. It seemed like back then, when I planned to go to Delhi, the whole airline industry was against me! I mean what are the odds of the ENTIRE Indian Airline Industry raising their ticket prices from Re.1 to Rs. 2500 for just a span of 5 days EXACTLY when I wish to make a reservation!!!
So there I was, forced to buy a railway ticket for a 36 hour long journey from Bangalore to Delhi via the Rajdhani Express. After a nail biting finish, I finally succeeded in getting a confirmed seat on the train (I had been on waiting list for 7 days prior) and with a weird twist, I reached the station two hours early. Now, as usual, like the rest of the throng of humanity, I headed to the café. These guys turned out to be licensed crooks! After charging Rs. 50 for a Cheese Club Sandwich, these guys gave me 3 thin half triangular slices of butter-less bread each holding on to an even thinner slice of cheese with nothing in between them!! After much curses in my native tongue I boarded the train. The railways turned out to be exactly opposite. They were so insistent that I feed myself, that every 4 hours they loaded me with everything they’d got!
8 am: Breakfast – Nice Indian breakfast with Tea
12 pm: Lunch – Full Indian Meal with Rice and Bread and Soup!
4 pm: Tea – Good pot of tea with crackers
8pm: Dinner – Indian Dinner with soup, salads, yogurt and all Indian dishes and Ice-cream!
By 9pm, I was wondering, how the hell the Indian Railways are able to provide such an awesome lay of food in an AC coach with 1/3rd the ticket fare of an airline. I was also wondering how the hell am I going to digest all of this, for I hadn’t crapped in all this while!
I’ve taken many train journeys in India and even one in the US. But, being alone in a long train journey was a new experience. I think in that sense, I prefer the second class because you bump into so many people that a indescribable bond forms within that mosaic of humanity and you end up sharing everything from your birth date to your dreams in life. In an AC coach though, it was all about silence, and manners, and personal space and silence…. And, and silence!.. oh I already said ‘silence’ .. sorry.. So this journey stretched on for longer than I had come prepared for. I had come prepared with two novels, a few films on my laptop. But I had quickly run through most of this when the train chugged into Bhopal – still a whole night’s journey to go. I resorted to that one pastime of man which can go on indefinitely - sleep. Around 7 am though, when the train chugged into the Hazrat Nizamuddin Station, I stepped out into a cold draft of wind. Delhi was cold! And there I was with just a T shirt on my back (well, in my defense, the South and Mumbai – from where I came – are hot places!).
So I spent the first few hours in Delhi sipping piping hot chai at a tea stall till my friend picked me up in his car. I had forgotten my toothbrush and toothpaste. So, our first stop was at a mall. Now, at 10 am, the malls in Delhi are not exactly open. We still managed to find the pair and I went into the men’s room. You should have seen the scandalized looks on the faces of the early morning mall visitors when they saw me open the new toothbrush, paste and start brushing. They must’ve thought I live at the mall! :)
We next headed out to see the “Mughal Gardens” in the environs of the “Rashtrapati Bhavan” the official residence of the President of India – the highest seat of power in the land. This garden is very famous as being one of the most beautifully done gardens by the British surrounding the palace of the then Viceroy of India. Its open to public only for one month in a year.
This was a very memorable experience for me. I am total history buff so anything that brings me in close contact with historical significance enthralls me. And here I was, standing 50 feet from the house of the President of India, in her gardens smelling the roses and the dahlias and taking in the beauty and majesty of the British Raj in its glory. I could almost sense the aura of the Gora Sahib – the British imperial throne which ruled the entire Indian subcontinent from this majestic palace. The Viceroys, Presidents, Prime Ministers who govern the destinies of billions have walked along this garden…. Hmm.. it was truly a satisfying experience.
With this dip in the pool of history, it was now time to satisfy the hungry stomach. I had already decided that I didn’t want to go to any branded restaurant, but instead check out the very local, hole-in-the-wall famous joints in Old Delhi. So we began with Nirula’s ice-cream (yeah, well its not exactly a hole-in-the-wall, but it’s the best frickin’ ice-cream in town!). It was odd to go for double scoop sundae at 11 in the morning, but hey, we were on vacation. Then via Metro to Chandni Chowk. This place has been a rich, dazzling, overflowing bazaar of sweets, food, jewels, cloth, lights and silks since as long as Indians can remember. Take a look at the picture below to understand the density, hum and whirlpool of activity that I am talking about.
Chandni Chowk – cloth merchants
The open bazaar at Chandni Chowk
“ParantheWali Galli” at Chandni Chowk
It’s a seething mass of people, products, services, businesses, eateries and vehicles like you’ve never seen. But the longer you linger around there and soak in the environment, you begin to make out a pattern – an order to the ensuing chaos. You see the cloth dealers who know their target customer segment and pitch their wares accordingly. You see the eateries which have lost contact with hygiene in the mid-20th century! – but now use that same attribute as a Unique Selling Proposition and a branding strategy to attract thousands of customers every day. (I think only in India can you see how uncleanliness becomes a selling proposition!) You see the sweetshops who have been making these delicious masterpieces of Indian sweets since the 1880’s without missing a step even once. Success stories and scandals, shimmering jewels and bangles, wafting scents and spices it is all seen here in Chandni Chowk.
Sumit took me to this small (almost miniscule) by-lane called “Parawnthe Wali Galli” to eat some piping hot paranthas. It was a tiny lane, extending into a maze of such by-lanes some 6 feet wide, dotted with hundred of shops. The moment I walked into it, I was flabbergasted by an amazing battery of smells and sights – of spices and jewel shops. The place we ate at had pictures of former Prime Ministers and Chief Ministers coming here to eat put up on its wall. The chef was making boiling hot paranthas served with sauces, curry and chillies. It was a mouth watering (and eye watering :)) treat! A delightful preparation indeed.
The paranthas being made outside the shop
Sumit outside the “Parawthe Wala” our very own hole in Delhi’s wall :)
At the corner of the mouth of this by-lane stands a 120 year old “Chaat” shop. The Dahi Bhallaas at this place were amazingly good! We followed this up with a trip to Palika Bazaar – Delhi’s “underground” market – both literally physically and metaphorically (as in it deals in boot legged stuff). We got some seriously good deals on some electronic items.
Our last stop that evening in Delhi was the “Delhi Haat” – a fair of merchants from all the different states of India showcasing the legendary Indian art, culture, food and handmade artifacts for sale. It was a curiously archaic atmosphere at the outskirts of modern Delhi. With a crisp evening breeze beginning to blow, I browsed and purchased some authentic handmade items for my close friends. We ended the evening with some nice food from Sikkim (a Northeastern state of India) called “momos”, fruitbeer and some south Indian filter coffee.
I remember feeling very well fed, tired, contented and sleepy while riding the cab out of Delhi that evening. We were heading out to Hisar, Haryana – Sumit’s hometown.
This particular leg of my journey was a very impromptu decision. My good friend Sumit was going to get engaged, and I said to him “Hey, it’ll be so cool if I can be there in Hisar, I’ve never seen the North of India!” And from that point on, he insisted that I must make it. So, Hisar, here I come!
In a journey, yes, yes, the destination is important, the travel mates are important even the food may be important!... but folks, the medium of travel is THE most important. It seemed like back then, when I planned to go to Delhi, the whole airline industry was against me! I mean what are the odds of the ENTIRE Indian Airline Industry raising their ticket prices from Re.1 to Rs. 2500 for just a span of 5 days EXACTLY when I wish to make a reservation!!!
So there I was, forced to buy a railway ticket for a 36 hour long journey from Bangalore to Delhi via the Rajdhani Express. After a nail biting finish, I finally succeeded in getting a confirmed seat on the train (I had been on waiting list for 7 days prior) and with a weird twist, I reached the station two hours early. Now, as usual, like the rest of the throng of humanity, I headed to the café. These guys turned out to be licensed crooks! After charging Rs. 50 for a Cheese Club Sandwich, these guys gave me 3 thin half triangular slices of butter-less bread each holding on to an even thinner slice of cheese with nothing in between them!! After much curses in my native tongue I boarded the train. The railways turned out to be exactly opposite. They were so insistent that I feed myself, that every 4 hours they loaded me with everything they’d got!
8 am: Breakfast – Nice Indian breakfast with Tea
12 pm: Lunch – Full Indian Meal with Rice and Bread and Soup!
4 pm: Tea – Good pot of tea with crackers
8pm: Dinner – Indian Dinner with soup, salads, yogurt and all Indian dishes and Ice-cream!
By 9pm, I was wondering, how the hell the Indian Railways are able to provide such an awesome lay of food in an AC coach with 1/3rd the ticket fare of an airline. I was also wondering how the hell am I going to digest all of this, for I hadn’t crapped in all this while!
I’ve taken many train journeys in India and even one in the US. But, being alone in a long train journey was a new experience. I think in that sense, I prefer the second class because you bump into so many people that a indescribable bond forms within that mosaic of humanity and you end up sharing everything from your birth date to your dreams in life. In an AC coach though, it was all about silence, and manners, and personal space and silence…. And, and silence!.. oh I already said ‘silence’ .. sorry.. So this journey stretched on for longer than I had come prepared for. I had come prepared with two novels, a few films on my laptop. But I had quickly run through most of this when the train chugged into Bhopal – still a whole night’s journey to go. I resorted to that one pastime of man which can go on indefinitely - sleep. Around 7 am though, when the train chugged into the Hazrat Nizamuddin Station, I stepped out into a cold draft of wind. Delhi was cold! And there I was with just a T shirt on my back (well, in my defense, the South and Mumbai – from where I came – are hot places!).
So I spent the first few hours in Delhi sipping piping hot chai at a tea stall till my friend picked me up in his car. I had forgotten my toothbrush and toothpaste. So, our first stop was at a mall. Now, at 10 am, the malls in Delhi are not exactly open. We still managed to find the pair and I went into the men’s room. You should have seen the scandalized looks on the faces of the early morning mall visitors when they saw me open the new toothbrush, paste and start brushing. They must’ve thought I live at the mall! :)
We next headed out to see the “Mughal Gardens” in the environs of the “Rashtrapati Bhavan” the official residence of the President of India – the highest seat of power in the land. This garden is very famous as being one of the most beautifully done gardens by the British surrounding the palace of the then Viceroy of India. Its open to public only for one month in a year.
This was a very memorable experience for me. I am total history buff so anything that brings me in close contact with historical significance enthralls me. And here I was, standing 50 feet from the house of the President of India, in her gardens smelling the roses and the dahlias and taking in the beauty and majesty of the British Raj in its glory. I could almost sense the aura of the Gora Sahib – the British imperial throne which ruled the entire Indian subcontinent from this majestic palace. The Viceroys, Presidents, Prime Ministers who govern the destinies of billions have walked along this garden…. Hmm.. it was truly a satisfying experience.
With this dip in the pool of history, it was now time to satisfy the hungry stomach. I had already decided that I didn’t want to go to any branded restaurant, but instead check out the very local, hole-in-the-wall famous joints in Old Delhi. So we began with Nirula’s ice-cream (yeah, well its not exactly a hole-in-the-wall, but it’s the best frickin’ ice-cream in town!). It was odd to go for double scoop sundae at 11 in the morning, but hey, we were on vacation. Then via Metro to Chandni Chowk. This place has been a rich, dazzling, overflowing bazaar of sweets, food, jewels, cloth, lights and silks since as long as Indians can remember. Take a look at the picture below to understand the density, hum and whirlpool of activity that I am talking about.
Chandni Chowk – cloth merchants
The open bazaar at Chandni Chowk
“ParantheWali Galli” at Chandni Chowk
It’s a seething mass of people, products, services, businesses, eateries and vehicles like you’ve never seen. But the longer you linger around there and soak in the environment, you begin to make out a pattern – an order to the ensuing chaos. You see the cloth dealers who know their target customer segment and pitch their wares accordingly. You see the eateries which have lost contact with hygiene in the mid-20th century! – but now use that same attribute as a Unique Selling Proposition and a branding strategy to attract thousands of customers every day. (I think only in India can you see how uncleanliness becomes a selling proposition!) You see the sweetshops who have been making these delicious masterpieces of Indian sweets since the 1880’s without missing a step even once. Success stories and scandals, shimmering jewels and bangles, wafting scents and spices it is all seen here in Chandni Chowk.
Sumit took me to this small (almost miniscule) by-lane called “Parawnthe Wali Galli” to eat some piping hot paranthas. It was a tiny lane, extending into a maze of such by-lanes some 6 feet wide, dotted with hundred of shops. The moment I walked into it, I was flabbergasted by an amazing battery of smells and sights – of spices and jewel shops. The place we ate at had pictures of former Prime Ministers and Chief Ministers coming here to eat put up on its wall. The chef was making boiling hot paranthas served with sauces, curry and chillies. It was a mouth watering (and eye watering :)) treat! A delightful preparation indeed.
The paranthas being made outside the shop
Sumit outside the “Parawthe Wala” our very own hole in Delhi’s wall :)
At the corner of the mouth of this by-lane stands a 120 year old “Chaat” shop. The Dahi Bhallaas at this place were amazingly good! We followed this up with a trip to Palika Bazaar – Delhi’s “underground” market – both literally physically and metaphorically (as in it deals in boot legged stuff). We got some seriously good deals on some electronic items.
Our last stop that evening in Delhi was the “Delhi Haat” – a fair of merchants from all the different states of India showcasing the legendary Indian art, culture, food and handmade artifacts for sale. It was a curiously archaic atmosphere at the outskirts of modern Delhi. With a crisp evening breeze beginning to blow, I browsed and purchased some authentic handmade items for my close friends. We ended the evening with some nice food from Sikkim (a Northeastern state of India) called “momos”, fruitbeer and some south Indian filter coffee.
I remember feeling very well fed, tired, contented and sleepy while riding the cab out of Delhi that evening. We were heading out to Hisar, Haryana – Sumit’s hometown.
posted by Viraj Datar | 2:02 AM
2 Comments:
Hey! How come I didn't get any "authentic handmade item"?? ;-)
Now is Nirula's better than coldstone? :P
Infact am surprised u didn't post a pic of u with the icecream.. :)
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